Ah, Tulum. The Mexican Caribbean paradise on Earth. Coconut trees, turquoise blue water and blue skies with the occasional cumulus cloud in the distance. Cheaper and closer than Hawai’i for most of us located on the East Coast of the US and certainly closer for Europeans who definitely make up the majority of visitors (and foreigners in general) to the small town on the Yucatán Peninsula in the state of Quintana Roo.
You’ve probably heard about this magical place, either for its parties, its culture, its food, its architecture, or all of the above.
I had the pleasure to visit in November of last year (2021) for a family event and spent 10 days there. It’s every bit as magical as you’ve heard. If you’re considering a trip to the Riviera Maya, here’s what you need to know about this part of Mexico, starting with where to stay.
The first question that needs answering is… where should I stay?
There are multiple types of lodging options available, ranging from ultra-budget hostels in the center of Tulum town to luxury hotels. Depending on your budget, you definitely have a wide range of options.
The other question is location. Tulum is divided into essentially three zones: the Zona Hotelera, which is the beach strip. There are two sides: beachside and jungle. Most lodging on the beachside will have a private beach which is only accessible if you’re staying or have an event at the hotel, with one or two public beaches in the area. The jungle side does not, though there is access to some of the public beaches. You will need to bear this in mind if you want to be guaranteed beach access in the Zona Hotelera, especially since beachside lodging is going to be much more expensive.
As an example, before the “official” family event came and the rental apartments that had been reserved for my family had been opened to us, two of my siblings and I stayed at an Airbnb on the jungle side while another brother and his wife’s family stayed at a resort on the beach with private access. This definitely made it easier for us on the jungle side, since we had access to their beach and didn’t need to worry about not being able to enjoy the beach. Of course, we were paying around $70 a night for our Airbnb (for two nights total) and they were paying over twice that. There were a few public beaches near our Airbnb and we were also discounted for food since the Airbnb also had a restaurant within the complex, but still. We mainly only accessed the beach in the morning for sunrise (WORTH. IT.) when it was empty.
Aside from the Zona Hotelera, there’s a brand-new development on a stretch of road that goes from downtown Tulum (which is mainly one main highway and a few side streets; Tulum is quite a small town) called Aldea Zamá. This area has a few American hotels (Aloft, Kimpton, and a few others) as well as some restaurants and grocery stores, but there are a lot of apartment complexes currently being built up in the area. This is where you would stay if you’re looking for a rental apartment instead of a hotel room so you can have that comfort. Everything here is going to be virtually brand-new since it’s newly developed, though there are a few youth hostels. Lodging in downtown Tulum is going to be mainly hostel-like. Massive rooms which you’ll share with other backpackers and travelers.
Here are some pros and cons to help you figure out which you prefer:
The main con to staying in the Zona Hotelera is that while you’re right on the beach and can walk there and enjoy all the amenities of having shops and restaurants accessible to you, plumbing is light to non-existent. What does this mean? You’ll have running water for showers, but, and I will emphasize this: You will not be able to flush anything other than body waste into the toilet. Plumbing in the Zona Hotelera is not set up for paper waste products. You can wipe, but your toilet paper cannot be flushed. It goes in the trash can next to the toilet. Yes, this sounds gross, and it kind of is. It’s the major downside to the Zona Hotelera, and yes, even the really fancy, ultra-luxury places have this. The hotel where we had our event was a 4-star hotel and it did not allow flushing any paper down the toilet. It’s just something you will need to bear in mind. Aldea Zamá and downtown Tulum, on the other hand (Aldea Zamá for sure), will have better plumbing and services, so flush away. It is, however, about 3 kilometers (about 2 miles) from the Zona Hotelera and the beach. Taxis are everywhere, and some places even offer free bike rentals or discounted bike rentals for heading down to the strip where you can access the public beaches (about another kilometer/half a mile down the road).
Another point to note is that food is going to be much cheaper and much more accessible on the downtown/Aldea Zamá side of things as this is where the locals tend to live and work, so you’re closer to more authentic Quintana Roo culture. Food options in the Zona Hotelera are limited to resort restaurants and convenience stores, with a few smaller restaurants you can find if you´re looking for them. I'll get into the food options later on!
Stay tuned for the next post, which will discuss how to get to Tulum, which is located an hour south of Cancún!
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